More recently Haute Horlogerie and fine jewelry Haute Joaillerie lived their lives and their families were friends. But recently, watchmakers and jewelers have entered into a kind of marriage for money and lived a very entertaining and overall a beautiful life.
A couple of years ago, 300-100, when the clock could afford only monarchs and nobles, it was hard to find watches without diamonds. Now we are confident we return to those times. True, the alliance of noble families and Haute Horlogerie Haute JoaiUerie got a modern twist is not very decent, but a resounding and memorable name of the Bling-Bling. It is born of a subculture of hip-hop slang word in the past year, even got a big Oxford English Dictionary, which describes its meaning as: “A term denoting diamonds, jewelry and all sorts of ways to stand out in clothes and accessories. Comes from the eponymous single, written in the late 90’s the New Orleans rap group Cash Money Millionaires and artist BG.
You can certainly argue about who was “purely real” founder of this tough style – black rappers late 90’s or the Russian “‘brother’ early 90’s. But we can not accept a frantic urgency Bling-Bling in the early 2000’s.
Piaget Polo Tourbillon
Model Ref. G0A29O64, released in honor of the 25 th anniversary collection of Polo, is equipped with the famous ultra-minute tourbillon Piaget 600P manual winding and power reserve indication, the scale of which is made of blue sapphires. The decoration of these men’s watches from a white 18-karat gold were used 759 diamonds weighing 60.9 carats of sapphires and 40 (0.9 K)
Prelude of Love
I think, a prelude to the current jewelry-time love can be called in 1979, when Vacheron Constantin watches issued KaLLista (which translated from Greek means “most beautiful”). Until now, they are considered the most expensive wristwatch in the world. Made them an artist and sculptor Raymond Moretti, a friend of Jean Cocteau and Pablo Picasso. An anonymous client laid out for them just $ 5 million – even those not facilitated the rapid inflation, the end of XX century.
(Formally, the world record – 4,026,524 USD – belongs to watch Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 1415 HU, as an anonymous client Vacheron Constantin has steadfastly refused to officially confirm the shared them for KaLLista amount by presenting, for example, a check.) Case and strap KaLLista is a compound invisible design 118 large emerald-cut diamonds, weighing 127 carats in 1934. In addition, finishing 141 hours were used diamond (strictly speaking, the term “diamond” means “the traditional diamond-cut”), weighing 18.74 carats. And every stone has a certificate of the International Gemmological Association (GIA). Total weight of hours together with the mechanism is 155 grams. For their creation took 6,000 man-hours and 5 years of work. Hitherto considered unattainable model KaLLista hours of high watchmaking and jewelry.
These watches have created a noble family of Lady KaLLa, the model is produced in strictly limited quantities, but often in a single instance. One of them was created specifically for the wedding of Princess Diana in 1981. Soon there were both male version of the clock.
Of course, Patek PhiLippe did not want to keep up with longtime rival and a few years later produced the first in the history of ladies’ collection Twenty-4. But after this brilliant clock got everything else. Someone like Cartier and Van CLeef & ArpeLs, just revived their traditions. Others clung unpretentious diamonds range available: in the end were born such, for example, models like BreitLing Cockpit Lady or multiple versions diamond Rolex Oyster. Incidentally, last looked so tasteless and defiant, they purchased in certain radical circles of society simply is unrealistic in popularity.
Vacheron Constantin 1972 Grande Modele Cambre
Another variation of the famous collection of 1,972 hours asymmetric. Grande Modele – a friend of a trapezoid with an anatomic bend to form the wrist. Underline its perfection shine 308 diamonds weighing 2.71 carats. Case in 18K white gold, silvered dial, the mechanism of crystal, alligator strap
The contribution of Franck Muller Watchland SA in the jewelry business – a new diamond cutting Curvex. In form it is identical to the silhouette of the body corporate tonneau. Having mastered a new facet, the company immediately acquired the jewelry line. Agree, these ornaments are very suitable for watches Franck Muller Totally Crazy
The benefits of cynicism
What brought the expansion of watchmakers in the jeweler’s art? Without false modesty, watchmakers can boast outstanding contribution in the jewelry business, which seemed to have peaked in the early XX century and since then froze as if in contemplation of its own magnificence and grandeur. During the ten years of playing in a foreign field a little more than a dozen watchmakers (in fact, the football team) have created several times more than all the jewelers together zaposlednee century, the only achievement that has been created in the 60 years Taylor-Burton diamond. The secret of such creativity, oddly enough, in the cynical and utilitarian for watchmakers to precious stones. It’s jewelers for centuries prayed to the diamond.
For them, this stone – the King or even God. Before we take up the processing of rare stones, a jeweler for years contemplating how best to do. In the XIII century, when people finally learned how to cut diamonds, they come up with 8 cut shapes: one facet of a century. Impressive growth, is not it? Mystery of the cutting and was, in fact, the main secret of the profession jeweler. She kept a closely guarded secret and passed on the master one most worthy of the heirs … As for the watchmakers, for them any stone – whether it be a diamond, emerald or ruby - especially support for the trunnion axes. Yet they can be regarded as an excellent diamond grinding material body, drawing the pattern on the dial or cutting glass. Yes, many watchmakers encrusted body jewels, but deep down, believe me, they are very opposed to it. For a real watchmaker mechanism is much more complicated and more vivid than anything else, and a large stone on the bezel or dial only distracts attention from the true beauty.
Cartier Declaration Haute Joaillerie
The most pretentious version of the sensational bracelet with quartz watches produced in white gold. Bracelet encrusted with diamonds and baguette cut diamonds, and is located under the logo of Cartier solitaire weighing 1 carat. Interestingly, the inner surface of the rings at these hours, the beads made of titanium (soft gold could quickly erase)
The benefits of artificial intelligence
Of course, in the commission of a diamond revolution watchmakers have helped computers, which they set themselves to the service as soon as the smart cars were born. However, that kept the same jewelers to adopt a PC? Is that the inertia of thinking …
Computers have presented an opportunity to invent new kinds of cuts, as well as experimenting with the cutting of colored diamonds – yellow, pink, red and even black.
Professional jewelers have flatly refused to deal with colored diamonds, believing that the restriction without loss of color and quality possible.
In addition to the traditional form – a diamond with 57 facets – there are also a number of classical forms: the princess, marquis, oval, pear, emerald, heart, and prints. These types of cuts “canonized.” Without going into the fascinating but complex nuances of the jeweler, say that the quality of diamond cut is determined by three indicators: “shine” (the character index of white light), “fire” (the character index of other colors) and “sparkle” (the nature of light and fire when the position of the diamond). All these indicators are extremely sensitive to small deviations in shape and size of faces, so to avoid risk, jewelers to the present day religiously followed the Path of our ancestors. But today’s powerful computers and sophisticated programs are able to independently calculate the refraction of light rays in a stone with a custom-cut: sets the approximate desired shape – and after a while you get the result.
New capabilities faster and better than other companies took advantage of Franck MuLler and KorLoff. The first patented a new type of cutting Curvex Cut with 73 facets, echoing the forms of corporate body clock tonneau. A French house KorLoff called his name a unique way to a triangular cut diamond with 65 facets (25 – on the crown and 40 – at the pavilion). KorLoff Cut changes the refraction of light in the “heart” of the stone. Thus, the light dispersion and brilliance of the game become even more effective.
Your computer is easy to give the only correct form of cut and colored diamonds. This applies not only to have become famous black diamonds from de Grisogono, but also pink, yellow, blue – from Chopard and Graff. Recall stunning model Chopardissimo, where the “float” pink, blue and white diamonds of exceptional beauty and purity, as well as the amazing clock, decorated with pink, yellow and cognac diamonds from Harry Winston. Well, when the secret of any colored stone can be easily solved artificial intelligence!
Founded in 1906 jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels, first became famous for spectacular jewelry, and then watch, created in the image and likeness of the most famous collections. That model of Socrate is an hour-long version, or, if desired, addition of the same name Setu from a necklace and bracelet. Each flower Socrate is made of white or yellow gold and adorned with 11 Brillante weighing 5.72 carats. Incidentally, the creators believe that those hours at the request of the owner, you can in a few seconds to transform a clip or even a pendant. Therefore, the model proposed Leather belt decorated with similar flowers jewelry
The benefits of sacrilege
Not feeding the congenital tremor in precious stones, watchmakers, in violation of all canons and taboos were the first to combine the noblest stone with the conventional steel. So, Chaumet and Pequignet diamond-encrusted steel watch case, a Technomarine mastered sacrilegious mix of diamonds, plastic, Chopard, Harry Winston, Chanel, and Breguet sprinkled with” watch with diamonds, as well as material for the use of rubber bracelets. And, most relevant for today – diamonds-figure. Chopard, TAG Heuer and other models produced in the buildings of the common metals, with cheap quartz movement, but richly straightened their diamonds. Perhaps we are already accustomed to everything, and therefore digital display in the diamond rim seems to us not wild, and quite avant-garde and defiantly stylish.
In TAG Heuer is not limited to unusual combinations of materials and proposed a new type of display time.
In watches Diamond Fiction, destined for Hollywood’s favorite of Uma Thurman, the current time show … Yes, all of them, my dears – diamonds! Quartz chronograph, decorated with 879 diamonds of pure water, literally sparkles. But the most interesting thing happening at a time when the button is activated, including LEDs. Turns red, they “lit” 54 gems, located on the dial. Passing through diamond, light creates iridescent effect of the flame, his brilliance is literally breathtaking.
But beyond all in search of truth (although it is true to say exactly) the company has gone Ulysse Nardin, who decided to defy nature itself. Using cutting-edge methods fotomanufaktury she invented the so-called cultured diamonds (cultured diamond), from which the escapement wheel is manufactured for the model Freak 28800 Diamond Heart.
By the way, the obsession with diamonds helped watchmakers take a look at their own achievements quite different eyes. For example, the idea of chronograph watches Zenith Star TourbiLLon brought to the point of absurdity. Instead of functional femtosecond, minute and hour counters, their creator and CEO Zenith president Thierry Nataf set whirling at different speeds are absolutely useless, but extremely beautiful and stylish stars (see sec. 32). Incidentally, not all watchmakers traditionalist attitude to Exercise Natafa favorably, although this is the case when the champions of the purity of jewelry rubbed his hands in delight: “Otlilis cat mouse-kina tears!”
Owner of the company tie Grisogono Fawaz Gruosi has title tamer black diamonds. However, the clock Instrument Tontlo 2 stones is not daunted. It all underlines their potential frivolity – and a red leather strap skate, and play of geometric shapes: a horizontal oval body + vertical oval dial + triangles of arrows + ruby sector power reserve + ruby circle pointer GMT. It turned out that the splendor of the black diamonds are not bleak, but funny.
Who is who?
In general, modern watch with diamonds – not just individually taken kind of clock, and the whole class with a few species. At one extreme are working nebrezglivye fashion-brands – manufacturers cheap clock, inlaid with not very good quality diamonds. On the other – the legendary brand for connoisseurs fine jewelry Zenith, Cartier, Piaget … Between them there are dozens of decent brands from Baume & Mercier (producer models, which are positioned as the first precious hours in the life of a woman with only one, but quality diamond) to advanced Omega, Longines, Maurice Lacroix. After the public merger in ecstasy of love for diamonds and each other watchmakers began to produce jewelry collections, and goldsmiths began to produce watches. And yet, and other times not create such a perfect work, that only knowledge of the history of the brand allows us to determine whose is the work – or watch brand jewelry at home?
Jewelry Set Leon Hatot 100 Ans consists of famous clock trass conformers. pendants, earrings and ring set up on the sketches of the famous jeweler Leon Ato. The brand in 2002 revived the head of the Swatch Group, Mr. Hayek, a senior. Materials: White Gold (18K), diamonds, sapphires, pearls, enamel. The most striking examples of successful jewelry business watchmakers – Chopard, Piaget, and Audemars Piguet. Among the jewelers, who managed to excel in the field of watchmaking, it should be noted Harry Winston, Tiffany, Van Qeef & Arpels, de Grisogono, Korloff …
King diamond Harry Winston, creating a model from a collection of Golden Aurora Avenue, which is used in inlays rare gold diamonds, has demonstrated exemplary community sentry related to jewelry watches. Due to the fact that the masters of the company was not gold, diamonds the size you want, release the model was delayed by as much as b years. But the diamond lane, running along the perimeter, looks perfect. A total corpus of yellow gold 750-carat diamond-encrusted 38 gold (total weight of 2.3 carats) and 26 normal (1.1 carats)